Wall-Mounted Nordic Curl

Written By PJ

Introduction

I love doing Nordic Curls, but I hate having to set up to do them. As a result, I do not do them as often as I would like. Therefore, I set out to make a standalone Wall-Mounted Nordic Curl attachment - so that I no longer have any excuse to not do this exercise!

Now instead of completing this DIY project …You could just buy one. However, the only inexpensive option that I found (which that wasn’t a STRAP) was this one: https://amzn.to/3Xt0EHb

It’s inexpensive –  in fact its actually cheaper than the one we are making today. So why not just  buy this? Well you can if you like (and if you do please use the link down in the video description below) – but here’s why I am making one instead of buying this.

  • The Pads looks kind of crappy.

  • The Pads also look like they slip right off that metal bar – there is nothing holding them on. I certainly don’t want them to slip off while performing the exercise.

  • I want something that can be attached/reattached at different height settings — one setting for using with a deficit (so that I can overload the Eccentric portion of the movement) and one setting for use without a deficit (just placing the pad directly on the ground).

DIY Tutorial

Step 1: Connect two 10”long 1/2” Plumbing Nipples to a 1/2” Plumbing Tee Connector.

They do not need to be 10” long necessarily. This is a matter of personal preference. You could go shorter or longer if you like. Just want sure that whatever pads you use can accommodate this length.

If you live in the USA, when it comes to buying Plumbing nipples, and related accessories (in my experience) Menard’s has way better prices than Home Depot. I still go to Home Depot for a lot of things. But if I am buying plumbing nipples - I NOW always go to Menard’s (after overpaying at Home Depot for years).

I always include shopping links to Plumbing nipples when I do these videos - for your convenience /reference. However, Amazon is rarely the best priced option for Plumbing Nipples unless you are buying in bulk.

Step 2: Add 3/4” PVC Conduit Couplings

Since I bought pads that are both approximately 8” long and I wanted them both to be situated at the very ends of the 10” long plumbing nipple - I added these Electrical Conduit Couplings. They essentially act s spacers. They are completely optional. The ones I used are gray. If you prefer white, grab 3/4” PVC Pipe Couplings from your plumbing department instead.

Step 3: Add Washers

These washers have a 7/8” Interior Diameter and a 2.25” Outer Diameter. This size of washer is not easy to find. Home Depot does not sell them. Menard’s does. However, Menard’s doesn’t always keep them stocked very well (in my experience). So to save you a trip - you can buy them here: https://amzn.to/3I5nn6s

These washers will help protect your pad from wear and tear from the adjoining pieces (i.e, conduit coupling).

Step 4: Add Pads

Like I mentioned in the video - I bought these pads: https://amzn.to/40VNw03 I love them.

However, If you want to make your own pads - a pool noodle is the way to go. Just be sure to use a DENSE pool noodle. The Dollar Store and Five Below - sell pool noodles. But they are not dense enough for this application. Further, Plumbing insulation - regardless of the which diameter you buy - will also not be dense enough. It may be initially, but you will soon realize that the pad will be permanently compressed (i.e.. dented) where your ankles will go - and this pad will no longer be comfortable.

Here is a good pool noodle; https://amzn.to/3YzuSJE However, it is expensive, Here is Missouri, USA, stores like Target and Menard’s do sell DENSE pool noodles for around $3-$5 each - but only in spring time. So if you are at Target or Menards and you see one - grab it.

All you have to do is cut them to size. Further, make them long enough to cover the entire nipple - which means you will not need the Conduit Couplings. However, I still recommend the washers . This will protect the pool noodle extend the duration of its usability.

Step 5: Add Another Washer.

Step 6: Add a 1/2” Nipple Cap

Step 7: Add a 6” Long Plumbing Nipple to the Tee

You may want to go longer or shorter than 6”. It is a matter of personal preference.

Step 8: Add a 1/2” Floor Flange

Step 9: Installation of 2x8 “Kicker Boards”

In the video - I showed you that I installed 2x8” lumber alongside each side of my Barbell’s Racks 2x4. These are optional. Their primary purpose is to protect the wall from damage. However, I also - like how the Anti-Slip Tape helps me press my feet against the wall with better security.

Each piece of 2x8 lumber is 41” long. This is overkill for this project - but perfect for my NEXT project (Subject = Top Secret for now). I cut a 45 Degree cut at the top of each piece of 2x8 (with my Circular Saw) and cut out a notch on the bottom (back side) with my Miter Saw, so that my wall’s base boards could fit inside the notch - keeping the 2x8 boards snug against the wall. Too see how I cut this notch watch my DIY Barbell Rack video - where I did the same thing. Watch that video here: https://youtu.be/y04L4aJEuoc

On these 2x8’s I also drilled holes using Countersink Bits so that the heads of the screws going through the 2x8 (and into the drywall anchors) would be recessed.

After hanging, I used 4” wide Anti-Slip Tape. Available here: https://amzn.to/3Pwe0in

Step 10: Installing Unit to Wall

You need to ensure that you are mounting to a wall stud. I of course, mounted mine to my DIY Barbell Rack which is made out of 2x4 Lumber which is Lag screwed to a wall stud.

Before you can install you need to determine 2 things first:

1) Which pad are you going to use to kneel on (because the thicker the pad - the higher you will need to mount the Floor flange). I highly recommend using a “Balance Pad” such as this one: https://amzn.to/3g83fTG

2) Do you want a deficit so that you can hold a weight plate in your hands on your way down to the ground (i.e., the “Eccentric” portion of the movement), and then release the weight plate on the ground, so that you can be more explosive on the way up. Doing tis will help you develop your posterior chain.

Using a deficit is completely optional – if you don’t care about this just place your kneeling pad directly on the floor. But if you do what a deficit – here are some options:

  • Option 1: –  Stack 3 or 4 45 LB pound plates. However, you need to ensure that the plates are not going to shift while conducting the movement. Therefore, with the plates stacked, measure the distance from the top surface of the top plate down to the floor. Then cut a length of 1.5” PVC pipe that exact length. Now insert the PVC pipe through all of the stacked plates. They will not shift now. You are safe. Now you can add your kneeling pad on top of these stacked plates.

  • Option 2: Build something. If you have been watching the channel – you have seen my “Omega Ams Foot Plate” in MANY videos. To learn how to build it – watch this video right here: https://youtu.be/NbFjSARtVME

    Using this is my preference because it is obviously easier to put it in place than 3 separate 45 LBS plates. But either option will work. One more note about the Omega Arms Foot Plate: I have three Floor flanges attached to the bottom of my Omega Arms Foot Plate. As a rule, the foot plate wobbles on the ground. Therefore I slid two 10LB “pancake” weight plate under one side of the Omega Arms Foot plate to keep it from wobbling.

Once you determine these two things, its’ time to mount.

See Video above for a “visual” - but here is an explanation….While kneeling on your kneeling pad (on or not on an elevated platform for a deficit), place floor flange on the 2x4 attached to your wall - where the pads are resting on your ankles. Now sit your butt on the pads - this till help compress the pads slightly - to mimic the compression that will occur when your body is leaning forward when conducting the exercise.

Now use a pencil and trace the position of the floor flange.

Now remove the Floor Flange, and secure it to the 2x4 on the wall.

Be sure to pre-drill to prevent the wood from splitting.

LAG BOLTS work best. In the video I am using Construction screws - which are not ideal. These will eventually wiggle their way out. However, I have a good reason for this which will be revealed when my aforementioned Top Secret Video comes out.

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ALTERNATIVES:

THIS PROJECT:

PJ
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