Belt Squat Blocks System

Written By PJ

Intro

I know that I have said this in the past, but this is my NEW favorite DIY project of all time! Here is the video tutorial:


In the past I  have built a diy lever belt squat which you can watch here:

I have built a DIY cable-based belt squat which you can watch here:

However, I definitely prefer free weight belt squats to those options by far. However, the issue for most people executing free-weight belt squats is being able to safely get on and off your platform with a load attached. This can be very dangerous when stepping on/off your blocks/platform with a heavy load attached to your belt. This is where my Belt Squat Blocks system comes in!

The stackable set only takes up the same space as an adjustable bench and is comprised of 2 utility blocks for you to stand on (and use for many other exercises). These blocks can be spaced out however you want. The cart is used as a mobile platform to easy “rack” and “unrack” the loading pin when executing free-weight belt squats.

This allows you to safely get in and out of position…just stand up….slide the cart, spin it around and exercise…when done spin it around and once the plates come in contact with the handle, set down the load and then you can dismount. Safely!

Why are the Blocks 14” wide?

Because it’s easier to make them if they are as wide a “multiple” of 2x4 widths – and 4  2x4s laid next to each other. is 14” It’s also easier if the the width and length of the cube are the same so that you only have to cut ONE length for ALL 2x4s. Therefore, I chose a 14” width. Also - this width opens up different possibilities for other uses that I will showcase in the future.

Why is the Cart 14” wide?

Same reason as having the Blocks be 14” wide…but ALSO because 35 LBS plates are 14” wide. I like to belt squat with 35 LBS plates because I feel that belt squatting with 45 LBS (which are 450mm across) makes me stand in an exaggeratedly wide position. With my design you can use all sizes of plates , including 45 LBS plates. However, your stance will not be able to be LESS than 14” wide.

If I made the cart narrower than 14”, you could have a narrower stance, but then larger-sized plates (such as 45 LBS plate) would not be very stable on the cart. Therefore, 14” wide is perfect! It allows for a narrow 14” stance, while still accommodating all plates sizes, including 45 LBS plates. Who stands squats with their feet less than 14” apart anyways? Very short people perhaps…but they can tailor the project dimensions to meet their unique needs.

DIY Tutorial

The Blocks:

  1. Determine Desired Height to get a deep squat. Take your loading pin (attaching a light load so that the belt is stretched out), connect to your belt squat belt, and stand on something.

    • I stood on 14” tall 5 gallon buckets, and my 6 foot tall frame, with a 14” long loading pin, and using the “Henny Hip Belt” which is adjustable – set to its longest setting (so that I have the option to use all of its settings) – I discovered that 14” tall is good for me. No need to go much bigger than 14”  - but to get a full Range of Motion, I need at least 14” therefore, I will shot for 14.25” tall. Therefore, I made mine with 9 layers of 2x4, which yield14.25 tall blocks (9 Layers x 1.5” thick 2x4s = 13.5” tall, plus 0.75” Horse Stall Mat = for a 14.25” Total Height.  

  2. Cut 14” long pieces of 2x4. I used 4 pieces for the top layer , and 3 prices each for the other 8 layers. Therefore, I needed a total of 28 x 14” long pieces of 2x4s for each of the two blocks. Using miter saw with the length stopper set to 14” sped this process up considerably, and ensure that all my 14” were EXACTLY the same length every time. If all you have is a circular saw, make a jig to achieve the same speed and uniformity.

    • Note: I was originally going to use 4 pieces on the bottom, but I chose to only use 3 pieces so that I can place items such as resistance bands, pipes, etc. under my blocks. You will see these gaps on the bottom layer put to good use in an upcoming video.

  3. Time to screw it all together. Alternate the orientation of each layer as you assemble.

    • I cut 4 spacer blocks (each is approximately 1.75” each) to ensure that the center 2x4 weas evenly and consistently set to the middle for each layer where there are 3 pieces (layers 1 through 8 – not top layer since it has 4 pieces). I used 2.5” long construction screws and predrilled each hole before adding each screw.

    • The biggest trick is to set the screws in apposition so that they do not get close to the screws that have already been sunk into the layer below it. In addition to screws, you could also add wood glue (prior to painting) to each piece as you add each piece. This would make it much stronger than my version, but I thought it was unnecessary. Time will tell if skipping the wood glue was a good idea or not.

  4. Once all 9 layers have been assembled – optionally paint or stain. I painted before assembly in the video, but that was a mistake. I ended up wasting too much paint, since much of what I painted ended up being covered up by other 2x4s. I should have waited until it was assembled in order to conserve paint.

  5. Now add the horse stall mat (or whatever protective layer of material you wish to use to protect the blocks while also providing anti-sip protection).

    • I used Construction screws with a larger head on them, along with washers to secure the horse stall mat. To learn how to cut horse stall mat watch this video here:

The Cart:

6.    Step 1 of building the cart will be to select your swivel caster wheels, because the height if your wheels will determine how many layers of 2x4s we are going to cut. Since want my cart to be approximately the same height as my blocks, and my caster wheels were 3.5” tall – my cart is comprised of only 6 layers of 2x4 (as opposed to the 9 layers we used for the blocks).

7.    Cut enough pieces of 14” long 2x4s to give you 4 pieces for the “bottom” (or the 2nd layer* as I did in the video) and 4 pieces for the top layer, along with three pieces for the middle layers.

  • Therefore, I used 20 pieces of 14” long 2x4 for the cart (Layer 1 = 3 pieces, Layer 2* = 4 pieces, Layer 3 = 3 pieces, Layer 4 = 3 pieces, Layer 5 = 3 pieces, and Layer 6 = 4 pieces = 20 pieces).

  • Make sure you don’t make the cart too high, because if you do  -you will have to stand on your tippy toes to set the load down while belt squatting.

8.    Make your handle. I am sure there are cheaper ways to make a handle, but this is what I chose to do: I used ½” plumbing nipples – 2 that are 36” long, one that is 10” long, and two elbows. TIP: Menards has better prices on plumbing nipples than Home Depot!

9.    Take 1 of the 14” long 2x4 pieces and use the handle to mark the position/placement/spacing of the 7/8” holes you will be adding to later insert the 36” long plumbing nipples. This piece will end up as one of the pieces for the top layer.

  • I went ahead and drilled the holes using a 7/8” Spade bit (or 7/8” Forstner bit) into this piece before assembling the cart, so that I could trace through those holes and onto the other corresponding 2x4 pieces to ensure that my screws did not interfere with these positions.

10. Assemble by adding your casters first. I used 2.5” Lag screws. Be sure to pre-drill before adding Lag Screws. These lag screws will go through 2 layers of 2x4 as I did in the video. Make sure that everything is square by using clamps, as you assemble. Then add each layer, alternating the orientation just like we did with the blocks in the section above.

11. Now drill your holes for the handle to fit into. Use a 7/8” Spade bit to drill the two holes through the top 3 layers (as far down as a standard 7/8” Spade bit can go).

12. Once assembled, paint or stain.

13. Lastly use the handle to mark the position of 7/8” holes into rubber mat (either horse stall mat or a scrap “welcome Mat” with a rubber bottom). Use your 7/8 Spade Bit or Forstner Bit (I prefer Forstner bit for this, but either option will work) to drill those holes.

14. Now place the mat on top of the cart and run the poles of your handle through the mat’s holes and into the cart’s holes. All done!


Shopping

🛍 🛒SHOPPING LIST WHEN SHOPPING, PLEASE CLICK FIRST TO SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: By shopping via any of these links, I get paid a small commission which helps support the Club’s costs such as Web Hosting the website.

GEAR

  • Dip Belt: https://amzn.to/42ZIDnU

  • Belt Squat Belt (SPUD): https://amzn.to/3nAkmV7

  • PILLOW Belt Squat Belt (SPUD): https://amzn.to/4afbcBp

  • Belt Squat Belt (HENNY - I am not an affiliate): https://bit.ly/3K38l24

  • Loading Pin: https://amzn.to/3xIFvh8

LUMBER & MISC

  • 2x4 Lumber: https://amzn.to/3iTa1Om

  • Horse Stall Mats (Recycled Rubber - TSC): https://bit.ly/3KDfExe

  • 2.5" Long #10X Construction Screws (To Mount Stall Mat): https://amzn.to/3hm5aVW

  • 2.5" Long #8X Construction Screws (To affix 2x4s together): https://amzn.to/3uIMRDB

  • 2.5" Long 5/16" Lag Screws (To affix Casters): https://amzn.to/3T8sH04

  • Swivel Casters: https://amzn.to/49YDr75 •Flat Washers (To Affix Mats):

  • Paint: https://amzn.to/3sXJJTU

🪠PLUMBING:

  • TWO 36” Long 1/2” Galvanized Nipple: https://amzn.to/34iE3a6

  • ONE 10” Long 1/2” Galvanized Nipple: https://amzn.to/3R4s4Sz

  • TWO 1/2” Elbows: https://amzn.to/3uNSXlZ

🪚TOOLS:

  • DEWALT COMBO PACK: Drill DCD791 & Impact Driver DCF887: https://amzn.to/3Bn1prD

  • Spade Bits: https://amzn.to/3nXRC6Q

  • Drill Bit set: https://amzn.to/3rPhzXE

  • Dewalt Compound Miter Saw: https://amzn.to/3AOTLGj

  • Dewalt Mitre Saw Stand: https://amzn.to/3KWpdXJ

  • Clamps: https://amzn.to/2SSnKeW

  • Speed Square: https://amzn.to/3hkLvFQ

  • IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Bar Clamp, 18-Inch: https://amzn.to/3oMkFdh

  • IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Bar Clamp, 24-Inch: https://amzn.to/3rN42A1

  • 7/8” Spade Bit: https://amzn.to/41aXjju

  • 7/8" Forstner Bit: https://amzn.to/3GpqzcB

PJ
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