2-in-1: Utility Seat & Reverse Hyper

Written By PJ

INTRO

This might be my favorite DIY Gym Project so far. Seriously!

It took a lot of planning, but after planning it - and replanning - the eventual design is actually very simple.

I actually have been meaning to build one of these for quite some time, but I knew that I wanted to wait until I got my new rack before I designed it. I recently got the REP Fitness PR5000 6-post rack - with flip-down-safeties and spotter arms. SO - I finally pulled the trigger on designing this VERY versatile piece of equipment.

This DIY Rack-Mounted Utility Seat (with an easy to add/remove Reverse Hyperextension attachment) is also an adjustable plyometric box, seal row bench, preacher Pad platform, leg extension, belt squat, GHD, and more! Here is the DIY Tutorial video:

Here is the “update” video - where I made some improvements and showed you a few more exercises:

For options for turning the utility seta into a Glute Ham Developer (GHD), watch this video:

To Turn it into a Glute Ham Developer (GHD) WITH A FOOT PLATE for doing GLUTE HAM RAISES, watch this UPDATE VIDEO:

WEIGHT CAPCITY

I know someone is going to ask me in the comments: How much does it hold? It happens every time. Here’s the deal…

I am not a structural engineer – so I cannot answer that. All I can do is test it to failure - deliberately breaking it – to determine the capacity…and I am not going to do that. Further, this does not mean that you will have the same results. If my lumber was drier than yours – we would have different results.

What I did test: it held my body weight (200 LBS) and 180 in plates.  This is more than enough for me.

If you want it to be EVEN STRONGER than my version – double up on the 2x12s (glue and screw them together). This will also allow you to use longer screws/lag bolts than I used.

However, I did not do this because I wanted to keep the unit as lightweight as possible. However, you should feel free to make this design your own! You want it to be heavier duty…Go for it!

DIY Tutorial

The following steps are a little different than I showed in the video, but order works.

ONE NOTE FOR THOSE OF YOU IN THE USA: Menard’s is the best place that I have found for buying Plumbing nipples. Home Depot is much more expensive!

Step1: Cut a length of 2x12 lumber

This should be AT LEAST as long as the outside edge of your Spotter Arms/Flip Down Safeties (or Pin Pipe Safeties or Safety Straps). I cut mine to be 47.25” long.

AGAIN – to make this even stronger – you can always DOUBLE UP – and affix 2 pieces of 2x12 lumber together with glue and screws.

Step 2: Cut two lengths of  2x4 lumber that are 10.25” long for “2x4 End Pieces.”

These will keep the 2x12 secure to your Spotter Arms/Flip Down Safeties/etc.

I cut mine to be 10.25” long because the 2x12 board is 11.25” wide, and I wanted 1/2” on each side of the 2x4 to accommodate being able to staple the pleather onto the 2x12….however, I was actually able to slide my pleather underneath the 2x4 end pieces before stapling. Therefore, I could have cut these pieces to be a full 11.15” long. However, I still think that 10.25” is a better idea…in case you cannot slide your pleather under the 2x4s….so… just do what I did and cut these two be 10.25”. Okay!

Now If you are using Spotter arms or Flip down safeties - you just need one 2x4 for each end of the 2x12. Just like I did.

However, if you have pin pipe safeties  or safety straps - you might consider having two 2x4s on each end where the pipe/safety strap lays in between the channel created between the 2x4s. Doing this will provide additional security, by limiting LATERAL movement. With regard to front/back movement….you might considering using LASHING STRAPS fed through holes drilled through these end pieces of 2x4s. Tightening the lashing straps will mitigate front/rear movement. All this being said, Safety straps will still wing to some degree  and are therefore not ideal.

Step 3: Drill Holes into “2x4 End Pieces.”

Drill a hole into the 2x4s with an appropriately sized Spade Bit (1” for me). The placement of the holes are key, and the size of the holes are key. As I showed you in the video, I traced the hole position of my Spotter Arms onto the 2x4, and then I used a 1” Spade Bit since my Spotter Arms had 1” holes. When I run my hitch pins through these holes it keeps the unit from sliding forward/backward when using the reverse hyper. Also - the prevents me from getting injured when performing steps ups, etc. because it keeps the unit secure. 

Therefore, use hitch pins if you have spotter arms or flip down safeties. If you have pin pipe safeties or safety straps….again…consider lashing straps.

Step 3:Cut two lengths of 2x4s that are 7.25“ Long

            These are for the Reverse Hyper Base.

Step 4: Drill holes into “Reverse Hyper Base 2x4s”

            I used a 1 1/8” Spade bit for this. The placement should be in the dead center of the boards.

Step 5: Cut 4 lengths of 2x4s Blocks that are 2 15/16” long.

This is also for the Reverse Hyper Base. These blocks will help to securely fasten Reverse Hyper base to the 2x12 Lumber.

Step 6: Assemble Rotating Unit for Reverse Hyper Base

Use Pipe Dope or Threadlocker to affix 4” long ¾” Plumbing Nipples to a ¾” Plumbing Nipple Tee Connector. Then add washers onto the plumbing nipples that have a 1” Interior Diameter, and a 2” Outer Diameter (THESE ARE NOT the same size washers that you will use in step 10).

Ensure the threadlocker dries for 24 hrs.

Step 7: Glue and Screw

Follow the placement I showed you the video.

However, you may want to consider adding the 2x4 End Pieces to the 2x12 until AFTER upholstering if you plan on placing your pleather underneath the 2x4 End Pieces – since the thickness of the pleather could cause the hole in the 2x4 End Piece to no longer align with the hole in your spotter arms/flip down safeties. That being said – I affixed mine to the 2x12 before upholstering (as I demonstrated in the video) and while the fit is a little snug – it still works well.

Let the glue dry for 24 hours before apply weight.

Step 8: Paint (Optional)

Since I was using black pleather – I also wanted the underside of the unit to also be black. I wrapped the Tee Connector and 4” plumbing nipples in blue painters’ tape before hitting the unit with black spray paint.

Do this step BEFORE upholstering. It is just easier.

Step 9: Upholster (Optional)

I do not expect most people to have really great surplus packaging foam that they need to duct tape together like I did. Your best bet is to go to the fabric store and get some upholstery foam. If you go this route – you will still need the spray adhesive, but not the duct tape or plastic shelf liner (but the shelf liner couldn’t hurt either way).

You can completely skip upholstering, and just place a BALANCE PAD on this unit when necessary.

Step 10: Make Reverse Hyper Arm

Use Pipe Dope or Threadlocker to affix a ¾” Plumbing Nipple Cross to a 24” long ¾” Plumbing Nipple. Then add 8” long ¾” Plumbing Nipples to the lateral holes in the cross (no threadlocker required).

Next add a washer with a 1” interior diameter and a 2.5” Outer diameter to each 8” long Plumbing nipple. Feel free to JB Weld these on if desired.

Then add your 3’ long tow strap, and a ¾” Plumbing Nipple to each end of the 8” long Plumbing nipples.

I DID end up adding Olympic Plate Adapters out of 1.5” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe. Those can be created using the method described here:

Step 11: Make Belt Squat Extension

Using a Step it and 3-in-1 Oil drill a 3/8” hole into the center of a ¾” Plumbing Nipple Cap. Then insert a 3/8” Eyebolt through that hole. Then add a nut (with threadlocker) two washers, and another nut (with threadlocker).

Allow the threadlocker to dry, and then add the cap to a 12” long ¾” Plumbing Nipple.

Add the unit to the remaining hole at the end of the “Cross” of the Reverse Hyper Arm…and connect to a belt squat belt, and exercise.

This design should work well for belt squats – but I wouldn’t add HUNDREDS of pounds to it. This design wasn’t meant to take on CRAZY weight. After all, executing Leg Extensions and Reverse Hypers correctly does not necessitate using a ton of weight.

I added a kickstand by adding a 2x4 to this “Belt Squat Extension pipe” by drilling a hole (whose center is 2” from the end of the 2x4), using a 1 1 /8” Spade Bit. The length of my 2x4 was approximately 29”, but the length of your 2x4 kickstand will depend upon 3 factors:

  • The height at which you set the Utility Seat on your rack

  • Your height

  • The height at which your carabiner sits on your Belt Squat Belt

Shopping

🛍 SHOPPING LIST WHEN SHOPPING, PLEASE CLICK FIRST TO SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: By shopping via any of these links, I get paid a small commission which helps support the Club’s costs such as Web Hosting the website.

Rack:

Lumber/Lumber Accessories:

Fasteners:

Reverse Hyper Base:

Reverse Hyper Arm:

Belt Squat Attachment:

Upholstery:

Other:

PJ
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