2-in-1 Belt Squat & Reverse Hyper Attachment

Written By PJ

This project was a BLAST. It saves a lot of money and a lot of space! It is highly durable and operates extremely smoothly. I also designed with Olympic and Standard Plates in mind to accommodate all of us in the DIY Fitness Club. Some of us have Olympic plates, some do not. My personal preference is to use Olympic Plates for Belt Squats (stacked on top), and Standard Plates when doing the Reverse Hyper.

Belt Squat Hinge Options:

I prefer using the Freedom hinge when doing belt squats, due to the increased freedom of movement. I feel that this better replicates a barbell squat. However, the fact is the Standard hinge does offer slightly better safety - in that - the tipping hazard is lower than the tipping hazard associated with the Freedom Hinge.

Reverse Hyper Hinge Options:

I only showcased the freedom hinge in the video. However, the fact is you COULD use a “standard hinge” here as well. Example: You could cut two blocks of wood, run a 7/8” Spade bit through them, and then affix those blocks to the underside of the DIY Parallel bars, then run a ½” nipple through the blocks and the unit (with the unit between the blocks). However, I found the Freedom hinge to be so smooth that I opted not to explore other options. Further, I did not want two blocks in my way when I am using the DIY Parallel bars for other exercises (e.g., Dips).

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CONSTRUCTION STEPS:

  • Step 1: Cut two 3 foot long 2x4s

  • Step 2: Cut NINE 1 15/16” pieces of 2 x4. The reason: the diameter of the 1 ½” PVC is 1 15/16”

  • Step 3: Cut Piece of 1 ½” Schedule 40 PVC (approximately 16” long)

  • Step 4: Pre-Drill and screw blocks to ends using 3” Deck Screws. Feel free to use Wood Glue here (I did not).

  • Step 5: Add 1 more Bock to each end (Use Wood Glue here then screw using 3” Deck Screws)

  • Step 6: Use a 45LB plate to determine position of interior Blocks, where the edge of the plate is aligned with the outer edge of the front’s 2nd block. Insert 16” PVC. Then affix Interior Blocks that “Sandwich” the 16” PVC with 3” Deck Screws.

  • Step 7: Drill Through all 3 layers of the unit (with the 16” PVC inserted) between the two interior blocks with a 7/8” Spade bit. While drilling ensure that the PVC remains stationary. To achieve this, I clamped a piece of plywood to the unit’s” bottom,” allowing me to press the PVC against the plywood while drilling.

  • Step 8: Drill hole in between the two FRONT blocks to accommodate the Eyebolt. Starting with Smaller bits, Work your way up to a 3/8” Bit, to accommodate the 3/8” Eyebolt.

  • Step 9: Drill Countersink to the “Eyebolt hole” on the BOTTOM of the unit with a Spade bit. The width of the countersink should be the same size as the washer you intend to use. I used a 3/8” Washer that was 1inch wide. Therefore, I used a 1” Spade Bit. The depth of the countersink only needs to be as deep as the combined  thickness of the Eyebolt’s nut and washer.

  • Step 10: Cut Kickstand out of 2x4. I am 5’11” and I cut my kickstand to be 21”. Full disclosure: I Originally cut it to be 23”, but it was too long. I originally planned for this to be the entirety of the kickstand (no tail or spine),  but I quickly realized upon testing that a Tail was needed to prevent tip over, and a “spine” was needed to reinforce the Kickstand from bowing on heavier loads. SEE STEP X for more details on Tail and Spine.

  • Step 11: Paint. This is the step in the process where I painted. However, I ended up having to do some touch up painting further in the process.

  • Step 12: Add 3rd block to the front. I ended up having to add this block in retrospect because the hinge did not have enough room. You could also add it earlier in the process (At the same time you conduct step 5).

  • Step 13: Affix the kickstand. This begins with affixing the door Hinge to the Kickstand using 1” #8 Construction Screws. Then mark the boundaries of where the screws are located  in the 2nd and 3rd block at the front of the unit. You need to do this to ensure that the 3” Deck screws you use to affix the hinge to the Unit do not get too close the other screws. If they get too close, you will likely split the wood.

  • Step 14: Drill a 1.25 counterbore using a 1.25 Forstner bit on a 1 15/16” block. The depth should be shallow enough so that the 1.26” Neodymium Magnets sits flush with the surface of the block.

  • Step 15: Affix the “Magnet block” to the frame. I Positioned it so that it was at the end of my 21” kickstand. When I was screwing this block to the frame I incorporated a slight offset so that the 3” deck screws were not in the center of the block. The reason I did this was so that those deck screws would not come into contact with the screw that goes through the magnet. Also – I only put 3” deck screws through one side of the block. Each time you screw into the wood, you risk splitting the wood. SO I did not want to take an unnecessary chance of that happening.

  • Step 16: Affix the magnet to the block’s counterbore using Gorilla glue. Ensure that you pre-drill where the magnet’s screw belongs. The screw that I used was the screw supplied with the magnet. I hand screwed it in using a Phillips screwdriver. Using a drill for this would be overkill and could potentially damage the magnet. These are the same magnets I used in my “Magnetic Plate Blocks” video. They are crazy song, and easily holds the weight of my kickstand with zero issues.

  • Step 17: Affix Metal to the Kickstand. I used a Simpson Strong Tie Plate (TP15), but you could use just about anything that is metal. I hammered in the plate in with 4 small nails.

  • Step 18: Cut a  2x3 for the Kickstand’s Spine and 2x4 for its Tail. The Tail used was 11 1/4” long. Feel free to go a little shorter or a little longer. The only reason I went with this length was that it was a piece of scrap I had, and it looked with a good length. It turned out to be perfect.

    The Spine I cut was 17 1/8” – but your length will depend upon how long your kickstand is. I got this length from measuring the distance from the edge of the interior edge of the Tail to the eyebolt that stick out the bottom.

    • As mentioned in Step 10, I originally did not expect this to be needed. However, after testing the product and having it tip over, I decided to add the tail. Also to increase the safety level I decided to incorporate a spine on the back of the kickstand. I Used 2x3 for the spine for ONE reason only. I was concerned that the kickstand might get too heavy for the magnet to hold the kickstand. SO I chose to use 2X3. Feel free to use 2x4 as well. It will probably hold and I was being overly cautious. Further, if it is too heavy, you could also add a second magnet (inside the last remining block).

  • Step 19: Affix the Tail to the Kickstand with three  2.5” Construction Screws. You do not want to affix the tail to the very edge of the kickstand. If you do, then the Tail will not make contact with the ground when the kickstand is engaged, and it becomes useless. Therefore, With Unit’s kickstand engaged center the tail and clamp it before screwing it on. If you do it right the Tail should have a slight overhang, extending beyond the edge of the kickstand.

  • Step 20: Affix the Spine to the kickstand with three  2.5” Construction Screws.

  • Step 21: Drill the hole for “Standard Hinge” using a 7/8” Spade Bit. The hole should be centered between the two blocks at the end of the unit. Please some wood underneath the unit when drilling to prevent a “blowout” like I had (where the wood got chipped on the bottom).

    I did this step at the end of the project, because after some initial testing of the product,  I wanted to offer it as an alternative to the “Freedom hinge”, knowing that some folks might want this feature. Truth be told, the SMARTEST time to do this step  is EARLIER IN THE PROCESS  (most likely in concert with Step 7 above).  The only reason I listed it as Step 21, was for Video continuity purposes (by the time I did it, the unit was painted already, so I could not edit it to be right after Step 7).

  • Step 22: Add Threadlocker to Eyebolt. I used Permanent Loctite, and I allowed for the full 24-hour curing process to occur before I used the unit.

  • Step 23: Affix Final Block to house the Kickstand trigger. Ensure the trigger placement will still afford you to lay a 45LB on top of the unit, while keeping the trigger within your reach. (NOTE: If your Kickstand is significantly shorter than mine, and you want to incorporate only one magnet, then may need to put the Magnet in THIS block instead.)

    Just like the “Magnet” Block – I used only two screws to affix the block to the unit’s frame in order to mitigate unnecessary screwing and risk of the wood splitting.

    The trigger is a 5”  piece (you can go longer if you like)  of 1 ½” Schedule 40 PVC, with a 1 ½” PVC Cap. I spray painted it red for aesthetics, and then coated it with clear packing tape to prevent the paint from chipping.

  • FINAL STEP: Now just do some paint touchups if required, and you are all set! Then be sure to SHOUT IT LOUD. Once done, brag about it! Put it on SOCIAL MEDIA To inspire others! Please use the #DesignBuildLift hashtag so that I can feature your amazing creation on my social media to help inspire others!

    -Get Inspired. Inspire Others. Repeat.

PJ
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